@Clean the component
leads with a small piece of emery paper.
at the correct distance from the componentís body and insert the component in its place
on the board.
find sometimes a component with heavier gauge leads than usual, that are too thick to
enter in the holes of the p.c. board.
case use a mini drill to enlarge the holes slightly. Do not make the holes too large as
this is going to make soldering difficult afterwards.
hot iron and place its tip on the component lead while holding the end of the solder wire
at the point where the lead emerges from the board. The iron tip must touch the lead
slightly above the p.c. board.
solder starts to melt and flow wait till it covers evenly the area around the hole and the
flux boils and gets out from underneath the solder. The whole operation should not take
more than 5 seconds. Remove the iron and allow the solder to cool naturally without
blowing on it or moving the component. If everything was done properly the surface of the
joint must have a bright metallic finish and its edges should be smoothly ended on the
component lead and the board track. If the solder looks dull, cracked,or has the shape of
a blob then you have made a dry joint and you should remove the solder (with a pump, or a
solder wick) and redo it.
not to overheat the tracks as it is very easy to lift them from the board and break them.
are soldering a sensitive component it is good practice to hold the lead from the
component side of the board with a pair of long-nose pliers to divert any heat that could
possibly damage the component.
that you do not use more solder than it is necessary as you are running the risk of
short-circuiting adjacent tracks on the board, especially if they are very close together.
finish your work cut off the excess of the component leads and clean the board thoroughly
with a suitable solvent to remove all flux residues that may still remain on it.
quite a few components in the circuit and you should be careful to avoid mistakes that
will be difficult to trace and repair afterwards. Solder first the pins and the IC sockets
and then following if that is possible the parts list the resistors the trimmers and the
capacitors paying particular attention to the correct orientation of the electrolytic.
the transistors and the diodes taking care not to overheat them during soldering. The
transducers should be positioned in such a way as they do not affect each other directly
because this will reduce the efficiency of the circuit. When you finish soldering, check
your work to make sure that you have done everything properly, and then insert the ICís
in their sockets paying attention to their correct orientation and handling IC3 with great
care as it is of the CMOS type and can be damaged quite easily by static discharges. Do
not take it out of its aluminium foil wrapper till it is time to insert it in its socket,
ground the board and your body to discharge static electricity and then insert the IC
carefully in its socket. In the kit you will find a LED and a resistor of 560 ó which
will help you to make the necessary adjustments to the circuit. Connect the resistor in
series with the LED and then connect them between point 9 of the circuit and the positive
supply rail (point 1).
Connect the power supply across points 1 (+) and 2 (-) of the p.c.
board and put P1 at roughly its middle position. Turn then P2 slowly till the LED lights
when you move your fingers slightly in front of the transducers. If you have a frequency
counter then you can make a much more accurate adjustment of the circuit. Connect the
frequency counter across the transducer and adjust P2 till the frequency of the oscillator
is exactly the same as the resonant frequency of the transducer. Adjust then P1 for
maximum sensitivity. Connecting together pins 7 & 8 on the p.c. board will make the
circuit to stay triggered till it is manually reset after an alarm. This can be very
useful if you want to know that there was an attempt to enter in the place which are
protected by the radar.
This kit does not need any adjustments, if you follow the building
If they are used as part of a larger assembly and any damage is caused,
our company bears no responsibility.
While using electrical parts, handle power supply and equipment with
great care, following safety standards as described by international specs and
If it does not work
Check your work for possible dry joints, bridges across adjacent tracks
or soldering flux residues that usually cause problems. Check again all the external
connections to and from the circuit to see if there is a mistake there.
See that there are no components missing or inserted in the wrong
Make sure that all the polarised components have been soldered the
right way round. Make sure that the supply has the correct voltage and is connected the
right way round to your circuit. Check your project for faulty or damaged components.
If everything checks and your project still fails to work, please
contact your retailer and the Smart Kit Service will repair it for you.